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12/21/2001 BY PAT BRUNO
What do you call it when something like a dozen restaurants
are jammed into a space of two short blocks? A feeding frenzy? Insanity?
Culinary clumping? What do you call it when something like a dozen restaurants are jammed into a space of two short blocks? A feeding frenzy? Insanity? Culinary clumping? Harry Caray's, Ruth's Chris, Redfish, Brasserie Jo, Sullivans Steakhouse, Freddy's Rib House, Vong's Thai Kitchen, Smith & Wollensky, and House of Blues are just a few of the restaurants that are packed cheek to jowl in and around Dearborn, Kinzie, Hubbard and State. And just when you think there are precious few tablecloths to go around, along comes Keefer's, which is across the street from Harry Caray's. In style, Keefer's is as slick as a rain-swept highway. In substance, it is a contemporary American steakhouse. The way I see it, any restaurant with a minimum of five steaks and two chops on the menu falls into the steakhouse category. However, when you drop dishes like asparagus wrapped with prosciutto, grilled tuna steak with an Asian barbecue sauce, and spinach ravioli into the culinary mix, there is a definite contemporary blend to the whole affair. The sizzle behind the scene (a k a money and talent) at Keefer's is Jimmy de Castro (former radio industry maven), Glenn Keefer (steakhouse veteran of Ruth's Chris and the Palm), and last but far from least, John Hogan. Hogan is the executive chef, so most of what this restaurant is all about falls on his shoulders. Hogan is no stranger to this kind of load. His resume, which climbs more than a few mountains of haute, includes high-profile restaurants such as Everest, Kiki's Bistro, Park Avenue Cafe and Savarin. While there are a number of factors that determine the rise or fall of a restaurant--service, comfort level, location--in the end it all boils down to the quality of the food. This is especially true when the restaurant falls into the fine-dining category, and Keefer's lands with a thud when it comes to that. The term "fine dining" does not necessarily relate to the posh and pomp of the place. It also has to do with what you get for what you pay. There is little question that Keefer's is working with a high-quality deck. And Hogan knows how to deal the cards. A quick review of the menu told me that he got it right. I am of the opinion that the culinary buzzwords for 2002 will be "simple and sensational." To put it another way, "comfort food without contrivance." Hogan put together two dandy menus (lunch and dinner). These are not blockbuster menus, nor are they short subjects. At this time and in this place they are just right, and the eating was fine (most of the time) up one side of the menu and down another. Now, as long as Hogan does not allow himself and the kitchen to drift off into the sea of tranquility a few months down the line, Keefer's should do quite well (even in the face of all those restaurants that swirl around it). The steakhouse approach is in play here, which means that a la carte is romping across the playing field. The good news is that the list of potato and vegetable sides is reasonably priced (average $3.95). The other news--good or bad depending on your point of view--is that most of those side dishes are one serving (but then nowhere is it suggested that the side dishes are big enough to share). The enjoyment here, by and large, was complete. There were a few small matters that perplexed me, but they were not of major consequence. For example, the "crispy calamari" appetizer on the lunch menu (pointing out the use of panko, which is a high-quality Japanese bread crumb) was crispy all right, but much of that panko was falling off the rings of squid. As tender as those rings were, the end result was a mish-mash of bread crumbs in the bottom of the bowl. Another small matter. I was very disappointed in the chicken noodle soup. By any standard, it did not measure up. Very mundane. The overall flavor was bland, and the soup was in dire need of more noodles and more chicken. While I am at it, I might as well stick with the dishes sampled from the lunch menu (considering the quality, the prices are very reasonable), and in that regard I can highly recommend the chopped steak burger. Excellent in every way. Quality, flavorful meat through and through. Have it with the Cabot cheddar to get that extra ka-ching of flavor. The burger was a beauty, but the smoked grilled pork sandwich turned out to be the winner of this sandwich pageant. While I am certain that the delicious homemade sauerkraut piled atop slices of pork gave the sandwich a good taste kick, the pork held its own in every delicious way. A tangle of excellent coleslaw (the creamy kind) paired up nicely with the pork. The lunch menu states that "all lunch entrees and sandwiches come with a salad and choice of frites, croquette or whipped potato," so I was scratching my head a bit when on the plate with the burger and the pork sandwich were these french fries. The fries were very good, but they are definitely not the frites that I had ordered. When I brought that up to the waiter, it took only a matter of a few minutes for the real deal to arrive. Fabulous frites--the skinny-cut kind that eat like popcorn and disappear just as fast--are served vertically, from a cloth napkin lined with parchment formed into a huge cone that sits in a wire holder. Great frites, nice presentation. The dinner menu is replete with steaks, chops and seafood, and there are two pasta dishes and five salads. But first, the appetizers. Two are of particular note. The asparagus wrapped with prosciutto was perfect in every respect. The hunky asparagus--six spears in all--could not have been cooked more perfectly, and as it paired up with the smokiness of the prosciutto, the marriage was most blissful. Adding yet another element of interest was something called a fontina fondue, but you can call it a cheese sauce. Regardless, it worked perfectly. A fine salad (in size and reasonable price) was the "baby romaine." Leaves of romaine, arranged in a single layer across a small platter, got a veil of vinaigrette, pieces of fresh mozzarella, fresh basil and lusty kalamata olives. Relative to steaks, I say it was toss-up between the porterhouse and the Delmonico. Both were top-quality, top-flavor, cooked exactly as ordered. OK, if I had to choose one, it would be the Delmonico. Generously sized, the good marbling imbued the steak with a ton of good flavor. The roasted veal chop was just as good. Tender, juicy, cooked just right. A chop that makes you stop after each bite to appreciate its deep-down goodness. It comes with a ramekin filled with wild mushrooms, with an earthy, dark sauce adding taste. Side dishes to fall in love with (besides the pommes frites) are Hogan's peas (a creamy pea concoction laced with pearl onions and chips of bacon) and the silky, tender steamed spinach. The dessert menu did not ring my calorie chimes all that much. However, the dessert special one night, an in-the-round creme fraiche cheesecake--rich, lush and creamy--was outstanding. Also, the "triple chocolate" turned out to be a simple flourless chocolate cake, but one of notable goodness, the pleasure factor raised to another level with the addition of a sinful chocolate sauce and double-delicious chocolate ice cream. TRY: asparagus wrapped with prosciutto, Delmonico steak, pork sandwich, Hogan's peas, chocolate cake HOURS: lunch, 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday-Friday; dinner until 10:30 p.m. Monday-Friday, to midnight Saturday; closed on Sunday WHEELS: valet ($9); wheelchair accessible TIPS: A wall of windows wraps gracefully from Kinzie to Dearborn, and that gives the place, depending on whom you talk to, either a real businesslike look (as in serious) or a culinary contemporary look (as in 21st century). Booths and tables, a curving bar, a stone fireplace, lots of action. Service is tentative, but hopefully it will improve. Extensive and expensive wine list. The bistro menu on the dinner menu is the best deal around. Not good for children. Reservations suggested. IN A BITE: Keefer's is a place where the movers hang around and the shakers come and go. This is an upscale contemporary American steakhouse with a menu that roams from rack of lamb to ravioli, from "duck liver" to Delmonico steak. Not everything on the menu is to die for, but the hits far and away make up for minor miscues. Pat Bruno is a freelance writer, critic and author.
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