10/01/02

Restaurants and Institutions

Chicago Style

Keefer’s
20 W. Kinzie St., (312) 467-9525
A 50-foot granite bar, leather booths and floor-to-ceiling windows give Keefer’s a contemporary but clubby appeal. Steaks and seafood are specialties but the menu’s dalliance with French bistro fare can’t be denied with Hogan at the helm.

Alongside veal shops, pork chops and prime steaks with sauces including bordelaise, béarnaise and peppercorn are side dishes such as creamed spinach, braised Belgian endive and unforgettable potato croquettes with cheese fondue. Steak frites, Dover sole meuniere and mussels frites answer the call for bistro fare while grilled tuna steak with Asian barbecue sauce, long fusilli with prosciutto bolognese, and spinach and roasted tomato ravioli are among the menu’s attempts to please all palates.

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